Stephanie's Trail Journal

Sunday, May 16th

-- Stats from Day 24 --
Beginning Point: Cosby Knob Shelter
Ending Point: Standing Bear Farms
Daily Mileage: ~ 9 miles
Total Mileage: miles
Weather: High humidity day with some rain, but not too warm

We left the shelter early - by our standards - at 7:45 am so we could make Mountain Mommas (a famous AT stopping point / lunch spot) by lunchtime. It was only 6 miles or so, but the first 2.5 were all uphill. Sometimes the trail doesn't have switchbacks, it just keeps snaking around the mountain, like this one did. Fortunately it wasn't terribly steep so we didn't have to stop for "breath-catching" breaks.

The highlight of the day was in the morning... we took a side trail to the Mount Cammerer Lookout Tower, one of the oldest firetowers of its kind in the east. It sits on top of a rocky ridge that surrounded by mountains on all sides. We had a clear morning and the views from it were incredible. One of the information boards indicated that this one deviated from traditional Lookout tower design because it had eight rather than four windows (4-window buildings orient with the four cardinal directions) because visibility was often poor due to fog and clouds or obstructed by other mountains. We had second breakfast there and snapped some stellar (hopefully) photos.

The vegetation became more and more lush as we descended from the last big mountain, changing from frasier firs to hemlocks and rhododendrons, then to maples and oaks and lots of herbaceous plants and wildflowers. The one thing about the northern half of the Smokies is that the trail consists of palm-sized broken stones. They are loose underfoot and I often trip on them - I'm surprised I haven't injured my ankles yet (knock on wood!). They also are very hard on the feet.

When we got out of the mountains we ditched our packs in the woods amidst poison ivy (we are still waiting to see just how allergic we are to it) and walked the mile and a half to Mountain Momma's, the only nearby restaurant. There, we each ordered the hikers special - Huge Cheeseburger - with a side of fries
- not bad except for all the grease that our stomachs aren't used to anymore.

The hike through the stretch of woods preceding the Pigeon River was cool; a tiny spring grew into a small roaring stream that emptied into the Pigeon River. Where the woods ended, a Trail Angel had posted a note that congratulated us on making it this far and indicated they left BEER in the river along with some other items. We searched the river for the secret stash, but I think other hikers before us enjoyed the magic.

We finally made it to Standing Bear Farms around 3:30 and settled in. They had a bunkhouse and a cabin that straddled a brook - very cute. Curtis and Marie own the place and made us feel at home. My shower was sans hot water because I couldn't figure out how to light the pilot light on the water heater, however it still felt great to be clean again. In the evening Curtis took us to a minimart gas station so we could resupply for the next few days... interesting ride... the more twisty-curvy the roads are, the faster you seem to travel. The marshmallow goo deposited on the van window by his 3-year old daughter was also interesting...

Curtis had a stockroom full of snack food and a freezer full with Digiorno Pizzas and cokes in the fridge. Everything is honor system - you keep track of what you take and pay up in an envelope upon your departure. He also has a pizza oven, which works pretty well. The only thing missing were napkins. While the pizza baked, Stephan sketched an image of the Mt. Cammerer lookout tower in chalk pastels in a sketchpad that Curtis leaves out for his hiker guests.

Okay, thats it for today. Tomorrow we are planning a big day - 18.5 miles. Maybe we'll get out of camp early again...

Steph
www.hikingat.com

Posted by steph at May 21, 2004 02:56 AM